CHRISTIAN NGUYEN - Basic Studio Set Up for Art Photography
Camera
• SLR with manual control modes
• ISO no higher that 800
• Use a prime lens whenever possible
• 5.6 -11 f-stop
• at slow speeds > 60 use the timer or shutter cable
• shoot RAW files whenever possible - if not the largest size available to your camera
Lights
Camera
• SLR with manual control modes
• ISO no higher that 800
• Use a prime lens whenever possible
• 5.6 -11 f-stop
• at slow speeds > 60 use the timer or shutter cable
• shoot RAW files whenever possible - if not the largest size available to your camera
Lights
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Hot Lights 3200K this can be also called Tungsten lights - yellow, warmer tone
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Strobes 5-5200K balanced for daylight
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Stands, Umbrellas to position the lights and diffuse the light beam
- Reflector cards - foam core is good, but if n/a then a sheet of paper - should be as wide as the artwork.
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Prime Lens are generally sharper than zoom lens
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50, 85 mm is good for art work, portraiture and still lifes.
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Use f-stops 5.6 to 11 get best results from the lens - wide open can result in unfocused areas
on the edge of the frame and also low depth of field.
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Depth of field is the amount of sharpness from the
foreground to the background. The higher the f-stop,
the deeper the depth of field.
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Low depth of field is used to blur the background
and isolate the subject. (See below.)
Choose the correct WB for based on your lighting
This is usually an in camera menu mode - this will set the camera sensor at the right logarithm filter for the available light.
• Avoid mixing lights - black out the curtains when using tungsten.
• Overcast days are best when shooting out doors.
• Light at noon gives good indoor lighting.
• Studios with northern exposures get longer diffused light over the day.
ISO - sensitivity of the CCD sensor
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Use the lowest ISO possible for your exposure range - especially with tungsten lights
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Strobes normal shoot at 125, so set the ISO to the exposure range based on the Shutter
Speed you want
Left: low ISO - low noise in shadows Right: high ISO - visible noise in shadows
Light Meter
• an external light meter is useful
• move the lights so the area of light is even across the shooting surface • Start at equal distance from wall
• 45 degrees from center line
• level to above middle of art work
• shadows on the wall should be even
• an external light meter is useful
• move the lights so the area of light is even across the shooting surface • Start at equal distance from wall
• 45 degrees from center line
• level to above middle of art work
• shadows on the wall should be even
AVOIDING GLARE
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Move lights to alternate positions, changing the angle of reflection.
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If shooting artwork with a lot of reflective surface, use black or white paper or mat board
to help eliminate the reflection.
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If lights are causing glare, increase the angle of the lights or move further to the sides of
the artwork until the reflection is no longer visible.
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If available, the use of an overhead diffused light source (like a softbox) will greatly aid in
photographing 3-D works and help create a gradated background for your work.
The use of white foam board or mat board can greatly help in evening lighting with 3-D
works. Use these to help reflect the light onto your objects. This can replace the use of
Photographing Objects
Differences:
Foreground and background lighting - control the ratio between the front and back of the set Shadows on the ground and background - control contrast and direction of the shadow
Fill - control the light on either side of the object - establish the Main and Fill lights
Reflections - use black, white or gold cards to control the reflections on the object
Image: https://hope.edu/academics/art-and-art-history/special-programs-opportunities/photographing-artwork-for-digital-portfolio.html





